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Winter is coming, so don’t procrastinate your to-do list. Use our easy guide to ensure your home is ready for next year.

Fall Maintenance Checklists for Your Entire Home

We’ve rounded up the top projects to complete during autumn and separated them into three easily completed checklists: indoor projects, outdoor tasks and cleaning ideas. The combined checklist is available for download at the button below.

Some items are as simple as making a phone call and setting up an appointment, while others could take a few hours or up to a few days.

Indoor Fall Home Maintenance Projects

As the days get shorter, you’ll probably find yourself spending more time indoors. Make the most of it by completing some items on your checklist. Here are some of the top projects to take care of inside your home this autumn:

☐ Find and fix drafts: Want to save money? Up to 30% of heating and cooling costs are due to drafts. To increase your energy efficiency, run your hand around the frame of your windows and exterior doors. If you feel a breeze or hear a whistling sound of air movement, you have a draft. Apply caulk to window frames and weatherstripping to doors and moveable parts of the windows. Replace old windows if needed.

☐ Get furnace inspected: While most HVAC professionals will recommend changing your furnace filter every four months, don’t forget to also get it inspected. A yearly inspection is important to make sure all the parts are working correctly and the furnace is safe to use. Plus, most furnace warranties will not cover fixes without proof of routine maintenance.

☐ Change smoke detector batteries: Change your smoke detector batteries every six months. While it might not be exactly six months, one of the easiest ways to remember to rotate your batteries is to swap them out when Daylight Saving Time hits. Install fresh batteries as you adjust your clocks.

☐ Inspect and clean chimney: Put some goggles on, grab a flashlight and look up your chimney. Check that the damper opens and closes properly and that you don’t see any obstructions in the flue. If you’re nervous about doing an inspection yourself, don’t hesitate to contact a professional for help. Either way, consider hiring someone to sweep your chimney every other year.

☐ Swap screens for storm windows: This is another way to increase the energy efficiency in your home. As the temperatures drop, make sure you have removed the screens from your windows and doors in favor of the glass storm frames to help keep the heat in and cold out.

☐ Remove, clean and store window AC units: The key step here is cleaning. Remove the unit from your window, and start by cleaning the filter. Don’t forget to wipe down the grill, fins, coils, drip tray and drain. Finish it off by scrubbing the exterior. Then store it for the winter following the manufacturer’s instructions, or drain the Freon and dispose of the unit if it won’t make it to next summer. Of course, if you have a permanently installed window unit, just focus on the cleaning.

☐ Fix insulation: Sometimes insulation needs to be reinstalled, whether you suffered water damage from a roof leak or household pests invaded and destroyed a section. Check unfinished places in your house to see the status of your insulation: attics, crawlspaces, basements and garages. Never had insulation installed? Fall is an ideal time to insulate your attic and DIY your garage insulation in two days.

☐ Reverse ceiling fan rotation: Hot air rises, so you’ll want to force it down during the winter. With your fan blades blowing upward, it will push the warmer air back into circulation. If your fan has a reverse feature, just flip the switch on the fan or yank the appropriate pull-cord to reverse the fan’s rotation.

Outdoor Autumn Upkeep Tasks

Fall is one of the most beautiful times to be outdoors. The leaves are changing and the temperature is brisk, but often comfortable. Take advantage of the time you’re spending in nature to ensure your home is ready for the change of season. Some tasks to consider include:

☐ Drain outdoor faucets: If you live in an area where freezing temperatures are common, protect your pipes by ensuring they’re empty. Whether you have an outdoor kitchen or just a couple of spigots, shut the water off to the outside of your home, then turn the faucet on until the water stops running. Don’t forget to drain your hoses and store them while doing this.

☐ Fix driveway cracks: Small cracks can easily become large ones by the end of winter when water continually freezes, expands and then melts. Keep your driveway and walkways safe in the winter by applying some concrete crack sealer to the holes while the weather is still good. If the cracks are beyond saving, consider breaking up the concrete to remove and pour a new section of cement.

☐ Continue cutting and fertilizing lawn: Until it consistently drops below 50 degrees, you’ll want to keep cutting your lawn. Additionally, you’ll want to give it one last fertilizer treatment around the time of its final mowing.

☐ Inspect your roof, walls and foundation: Walk the perimeter of your house and look it over from top to bottom. You’ll want to see if there are any cracks in the foundation, missing panels of siding, mortar work needed for bricks and missing or cracked roof shingles. It’s best to do this a couple times throughout the fall so that you can address any issues as they come up.

☐ Clean or replace gutters: Get a ladder, some gloves and start scooping the muck, leaves and twigs out of your gutters. You want to keep them clean so that rain water doesn’t spill out and down the side of your house, which can result in foundation issues. While cleaning, tighten any fasteners to the home and consider re-caulking any joints where leaks may occur. If you can’t get them to hang right, or they’re rusted and leaking beyond repair, consider replacing your gutters before winter begins.

☐ Winterize home sprinkler systems: If you have an underground sprinkler system, shut the water off at the main system valve and open the drain valve to remove any remaining water. Then, remove any above-ground sprinkler heads, shake the water out and re-connect them to the system. If you don’t have drain valves, you’ll need to hire a professional to blow the water out of your system with compressed air.

☐ Regrade near foundation: Rain, animals, kids — they can all change the slope of your lawn from its original state. While you don’t need to regrade your lawn annually, fall is an ideal time to build the slope away from your home’s foundation to keep water out of your basement and protect your home’s foundation.

☐ Caulk around windows: Similar to what you did inside, you’ll want to inspect all your exterior window seals. Caulk any seals that are broken to keep water from getting between the window and the wall then freezing during the cold winter months.

☐ Trim trees: If there are any dead branches hanging over your house, cut them down and throw them out in a yard waste dumpster. The weight of snow build-up can easily cause them to break off and fall.

☐ Replace garage door weatherstrip: Critters want to stay warm, too. They’ll take the route of least resistance, so that dime-sized hole in your garage’s weatherstrip can quickly become a front door for mice to make a home in your garage.

☐ Touch-up exterior paint: A fresh coat of paint not only goes a long way to making your house look new, but also will help keep moisture from getting into your walls, seeping into your wood deck or damaging porch railings. Keep in mind most exterior paints need to be applied when the temperature is still above 50 degrees.

☐ Test winter equipment: The last thing you want is for the first snowfall to come and then realize that your snow blower won’t start. As the weather begins to turn, start your snow thrower, boot up your space heaters for a few minutes and check to make sure your shovel is free of cracks.

Organizing and Cleaning Tasks to Do This Fall

After a busy summer, fall is the perfect time to finally declutter the garage or organize the basement storage room before the holiday decor comes out. We turned to Dargis to get the scoop on what cleaning and organization projects are tailor-made for autumn.

☐ Bring outdoor furniture in: If you’re in a Southern state, you may not need to do this, but most Northerners will want to bring outdoor furniture out of the weather and store it until the spring.

☐ Throw away or donate outdoor equipment: From hedge clippers to chairs, anything that you’ve used through the fall should be looked at and either put in storage for the winter or taken out of your house.
  

☐ Organize the garage: Whether you use it for your vehicles or as storage, autumn is a great time to go through your garage and get it ready for spring. After all, you won’t want to spend as much time in your garage in late winter while it’s still cold. Take anything you’ll use early in the spring and make it accessible, while putting your fall equipment in the back.

☐ Declutter storage areas as you put items away: Sometimes your storage area gets too packed. If you’re struggling to find space for your fall items, it’s time to declutter. Start with figuring out the last time you used the item. “Ask yourself if you wore or used it over the past year,” Dargis said. “If not, donate.”

☐ Organize your entryway: When the weather turns, you won’t want an unorganized entryway in the way as you try to get to warmth. Dargis suggests a quick process to get things in order that includes three key steps: decide the room’s purpose, declutter the area and then clean it.

☐ Swap out footwear: Unless you’re in a cold or hot area year-round, swapping seasonal shoes is an annual tradition. What isn’t always completed is putting your summer and fall shoes in storage when you pull out your winter boots. “You don’t need to have your sandals in your shoe area all winter,” Dargis said. “Make some space and store your shoes as well.”

Focus on CDs for cash reserves, consider IRA CDs and CD ladders and compare rates. But don’t lose sight of a CD’s purpose.

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Certificates of deposit generally get used as a short-term savings vehicle for goals such as upcoming home or car purchases. If you’re near or in retirement, you might wonder if CDs fit there too. And there’s even a type of CD designed for retirement funds called an IRA CD.

If you’re risk averse in your investing, CDs can be appealing. Safety is central to them: CDs offer predictable returns, federal deposit insurance and no volatility in value such as in the stock market. In short, they’re reliable and straightforward investments.

But CDs aren’t the most flexible among low-risk savings options. Here’s an overview of IRA CDs and some quick tips for how to use CDs for retirement.

What is an IRA CD?

An IRA CD is a tax-advantaged account invested in CDs. It’s technically a combination of two different financial accounts: An individual retirement account and a certificate of deposit. You can think of an IRA as the overall container and one or more CDs as the investments inside. IRA CDs provide tax benefits for money you’re dedicating to retirement and putting into CDs.

As with standard IRAs, IRA CDs have at least two different types: Traditional and Roth IRAs. The difference is based on when you’re taxed: Traditional IRAs let you reduce taxable income on contributions and you pay taxes later. Roth IRAs make you pay taxes on contributions initially and your future withdrawals, including interest earned, are tax-free.Expand to see a list of banks and credit unions with notable IRA CD rates

Consider IRA CDs to reduce taxes on interest

CD interest gets taxed at the same rate as regular income for the year you earned that interest. For example, having $10,000 in a one-year CD at 4% APY would earn you $400 in interest, so you’d be taxed on that $400. However, you can reduce your tax burden with IRA CDs.

» Learn more about what to know when paying taxes on interest or bank bonuses

For most of the last decade or so, CD rates were at rock-bottom lows and the tax burden for CD interest was minimal. But that’s changed with higher rates in recent years and with those higher yields comes the possibility of a more notable tax impact.

» Skip down to see FAQs about IRA CDs

5 other ways to use CDs in retirement

1. Focus on short-term “extra” savings for CDs

Whether you’re near retirement or not, an emergency fund tends to be the most important goal for short-term savings. Having three to six months’ worth of living expenses, or more, in a regular savings account tends to be a common recommendation. CDs aren’t best for emergency cash because they require locking up a fixed sum for a period, typically ranging from three months to five years.

CDs are more a secondary priority, intended for short-term savings beyond the amount needed for emergencies. CD yields are traditionally higher than what other bank accounts offer, giving them an incentive as a place to leave some money alone within a specific time frame.

2. Consider a CD ladder

Having a CD’s fixed rate during a high-rate environment can mean steady, solid returns for years. But in exchange, you lose access to funds for the term.

One workaround to keep your money occasionally accessible is a CD ladder. Instead of one CD, divide an investment into equal amounts and put them into CDs of staggered term lengths, such as one year, two years and three years. Shorter terms work, too: three months, six months and nine months. The idea is that you can access some cash each time a CD matures, while letting the rest of an investment grow.

3. Compare rates at banks or a brokerage

Your bank’s CDs might be convenient, but they don’t always beat the top CD rates offered by other institutions. Online banks and credit unions tend to have some of the best CD rates, and their opening minimum deposits are often low, such as $1,000 or less. Current high-yield rates are around 4% annual percentage yield for six-month and one-year terms, while longer-term rates such as for three and five years are closer to 3.75%, according to NerdWallet analysis in April.

You can also find competitive yields with brokered CDs, which are issued by banks and available at a brokerage. You need a brokerage account and some understanding of how these CDs work, though. Brokered CDs have the most benefits for savers with a lot of funds planned for CDs. For example, a brokerage can spread funds across multiple banks and credit unions to avoid hitting the $250,000 cap for federal deposit insurance, which protects your money if a bank fails.

4. Avoid withdrawing early

You generally can’t redeem CDs early without hassle or cost. At banks, CDs’ early withdrawals often come with a penalty, such as months to years’ worth of interest earned. A bank may let you withdraw interest early from a CD, but you’d lose out on the full amount a CD can earn from compounding interest. An early withdrawal from an IRA also can trigger a tax penalty, so IRA CDs can have up to two penalties: One from the CD, one from the IRA. (Skip down to the FAQ section for more details.)

At brokerages, you can leave a CD early by selling, but you risk losing some of the original value if current rates are higher than your CD’s rate.

Once a CD ends, there’s a grace period, typically seven to 10 days long, when you can withdraw the full amount without a penalty. Alternatively, you can consider a no-penalty CD, though rates tend to be lower than for high-yield CDs at the same bank.

5. Avoid putting too much money in CDs

The safety of CDs can be attractive, but you don’t want to overuse CDs. The inability to access CD funds means closing yourself off from other opportunities to use that money. A high-yield savings account, for example, might be more appropriate as a continuous option to get a decent rate while not locking up funds.

» Dive deeper: How much money should go into CDs

Another low-risk investment alternative to CDs, money market funds, can have comparable returns with easier access to cash for brokerage customers. And within an investment portfolio, stocks and bonds play bigger roles than cash investments such as CDs do over time. Stocks historically have provided the greatest likelihood for strong returns while bonds balance out stocks’ volatility with more stability. CDs don’t always protect against inflation, which can occur when inflation rises while you’re locked into a lower CD rate.

Don’t rule out CDs for retirement savings — just know when to use them

None of these stories are mine. They were sent to me by readers of Atomic Habits. My hope is that these examples will illustrate how real people are putting the book into practice. They will show you what people are actually doing to build good habits and break bad ones. And hopefully, they will spark some ideas for how you can do the same.

I have divided the stories into categories that roughly correspond to different sections or ideas in the book.

Identity-based habits

One of the central ideas in the book is the concept of building “identity-based habits”, which essentially recommends focusing on the type of person you wish to become rather than the outcome you wish to achieve.

One reader named Roland used the idea to improve his eating habits.

“I stopped eating unhealthy food via identity change,” he wrote. “I tried many times in the past, but it became easy — natural — only after I had made the conscious decision that I want to be someone who eats healthy. Instead of aiming for I want to stop eating bad food, I tried changing the mindset to I am someone that eats healthy and lives a healthy life. It changes how you approach things.”

Another reader named Robert employed this idea to help him quit smoking. He wrote, “I recently stopped smoking and the difference between I don’t smoke and I can’t smoke is a powerful trainer of my brain. The positive message of I don’t smoke is that I have not “given up” anything. I am not sacrificing a pleasure. I am investing in my future happiness and wellbeing.”

Like most strategies in the book, the concept of identity-based habits can be combined with other habit building tactics. For instance, one reader used an external reward of $10 to reinforce the desired identity. “I told myself, I am no longer a drinker. Then, after each day of non-drinking, I gave myself $10 to buy something nice rather than poison (like clothes and household items). Today, I no longer need the allowance and I’m six years sober.”

Chapter 2 of Atomic Habits covers these strategies in much greater detail.

Changing the Cues

Another way you can change a habit is by identifying and altering the cues that prompt your behavior. This is precisely what many readers have done.

One woman named Lisa cultivated a reading habit by increasing her exposure to books. “I’ve read more books by continually having 20-30 books on hold at the library,” she said. “It saves time on browsing for books. I always have new things to read with a three-week deadline.”

Heather used a similar strategy to reinforce the simple habit of drinking more water. “I use color and placement for visual reminding and motivation. I poured water in a bright aqua water bottle – my favorite color – and placed it on my nightstand so I couldn’t miss it when I woke up.”

Other readers have done the opposite. They reduced exposure to negative cues. One man named Max managed to eliminate his e-cigarette habit. “I quit e-cigarettes with a combination of determination and also quitting coffee at the same time, which was a trigger for me as I’d smoke and drink coffee together in the morning.”

Habit Stacking

Another popular tactic in the book is something I call “habit stacking.” It’s strategy I first learned from Stanford professor B.J. Fogg. He refers to it as “anchoring” because you anchor—or stack—your new habit onto a current habit.

One reader used habit stacking to create a simple rule for learning a new language.

“When I first moved to China and started to learn Mandarin, I committed to strike up a conversation with the taxi driver whenever I went into a cab (I took a lot of cab rides, 5+ daily). I did it for 2 years no matter the time of day or how tired I was. I now speak fluent Chinese.”

Similarly, a reader named David told me, “I meditate for 20 minutes after brushing my teeth in the morning. Linking new habits onto a keystone one seems to work.”

You’ll find all sorts of habit stacking examples in Chapter 5 of Atomic Habits.

Environment Design, Part I

I have written about the power of the environment and the importance of choice architecture in the past. The simple truth is our environment often shapes our behavior. Many readers are using this fact to their benefit by installing some of the environment design strategies I share in the book.

For starters, you can break a bad habit by increasing the friction in your environment.

One woman named Cyd curtailed her snacking habit with the following strategy. “My husband still loves his Pringles, as do I, but they’re now kept in a locked car that’s parked in the cold. It works!”

Multiple readers are learning to wake up earlier.

One reader named Daniel told me, “I jump out of bed every morning without any hesitation. The reason? The only way to turn off my alarm is to scan a QR Code I keep in the bathroom. This worked wonders for me.”

Chris utilized both environment design and habit stacking to stop sleeping in. He wrote, “I have a bad habit: Hitting snooze. To eliminate it, I “made it hard” and put phone in the bathroom. The phone then became a habit stack. The first thing I do when I wake up: turn off alarm, go to bathroom, brush teeth, etc.”

One of my favorite examples was sent to me by J. Money, the personal finance blogger. He wrote, “I brush my teeth right after putting my kids to bed every night (8pm), which has prevented me from eating or drinking (alcohol) at night for years… ‘Cuz who wants to re-brush them again!”

It’s a great example of creating just enough friction to keep your bad habits at bay.

Environment Design, Part II

Typically, we think of designing physical spaces, but you can use the same principles to shape your digital environment as well. For instance, a reader named Matthew wrote to me and said, “I significantly cut down on mindless Instagram time. Simply logging out of the app makes a big difference.”

Another reader named Viet went even further. “I used my own laziness to my own advantage with my bad habit of browsing Facebook. Deleting Facebook and having to go through the one extra step of going to website and logging in manually was enough barrier for me to not get back on.”

And Rahul did something similar to kill his video game habit. “For gaming addiction, I removed my graphic card,” he wrote. “For excessive net surfing on mobile, I uninstalled apps and removed the Chrome browser.”

Environment Design, Part III

On the flip side, you can foster good habits by reducing the friction in your environment.

Natalie started picking up her cluttered clothes and building better cleaning habits simply by reducing the number of steps between her and the laundry basket. “I quit leaving my socks all over the floor by putting a little basket beside the door to collect them in.”

Similar strategies can be particularly useful for building new exercise habits.

One reader named Justin sent me the following message: “I started going to a gym that was less than a mile from my house. This took away the time and inconvenience excuses. I was never consistent at exercise, but now I work out 8-10x a week. Crossfit, running, and cycling. I’ve been going strong for 2.5 years.”

Another reader wrote, “I’ve been running at 6 A.M. for the past two years. I always put my running gear (Garmin, compression sleeves, shoes, etc.) into a neat pile the night before. When I get up, I just get dressed and go out the door.”

I’ve even heard from readers who go to sleep wearing their running clothes. All they have to do is stumble out the door in the morning.

For more on environment design, see Chapters 6 and 12 of Atomic Habits.

Habit Substitution

In many cases, it can be more effective to replace your bad habit than to merely try to eliminate it.

The beautiful thing about habit substitution is that you can build a good habit and break a bad one at the same time. One reader told me, “At home I would go out to my backyard to smoke, so I put a weight bench out there and every time I wanted to smoke I’d go out and do some reps instead. After that, my craving was reduced.”

I thought the following idea was interesting. One reader replaced biting their nails with cutting their nails. “I stopped biting my fingernails mostly by making sure clippers were always close at hand – especially at work.”

Many readers have substituted a new habit in a “stair step” fashion. They gradually shift from the old habit to something healthier.

Mark, for example, shared the following strategy. “I significantly cut back on beer consumption. I used flavored sparkling water to replace the beer and I asked my wife to stop having beer in the fridge for a while. Once I replaced the habit (it was mostly stress drinking after work), I was able to add beer back into my life.”

And another reader, also named Marc, curtailed his drinking in a similar way. “I replaced drinking beer every day in a succession of replacements, going through fruit juice, then iced tea, then seltzer water. I did it over about nine months by having one less drink a week. Once I finally quit, I got past the cravings in only two weeks. I haven’t had a drink in over a year now.”

Shawn used this approach to stop smoking. “I decided to quit smoking and used a fun-sized Snickers candy bar as a substitute until the major cravings went away. I’m still smoke-free years later.”

Substitution can even be useful in a broader sense. Suraj wrote, “I was addicted to drugs and alcohol. To beat my addiction, I started working out. Now I am planning to compete in powerlifting meets.”

To a certain degree, habit substitution allows you to look for a healthier obsession. Some people are hooked on alcohol. Others are hooked on exercise. Either one can be unhealthy if taken too far, but generally speaking it’s a lot better to spend a few hours exercising each day than to spend a few hours drinking each day.

Mindset Tricks

Sometimes I like to employ clever little mental tricks to stick with a good habit.

One reader named Caelan wrote, “I quit smoking by assigning my cheat days progressively farther in the future. I never quit “for good,” I only quit until my next cheat day. This helped with cravings, because the choice wasn’t between “right now” or “never,” it was “right now” or “later.”

Ken applied a similar strategy to his habit of eating fast food. “I started small when I quit bad habits like eating McDonalds all the time and drinking soda. I told myself I’d take a week off, then said two weeks. That continued. This month, I made it four years without McDonalds and 15 months without soda.”

Another person used the Pointing-and-Calling strategy I discussed in Chapter 4. They wrote, “I quit smoking by saying a mantra out loud every time I wanted a cigarette (“your brain tricks you”) which I think changed my thinking from the subconscious part of my brain to the logical part.”

Qiana used a little math and a clever visual trick. “I stopped drinking soda,” she wrote. “I added up all the sodas I drank for the week and counted how many tablespoons of sugar were in those soda cans and bottles. I began to scoop the amount of sugar into an enormous bowl The visual did it for me. I had to break that habit.”

Habit Tracking

Finally, I’d like to close with one of my favorite strategies: habit tracking.

Here’s how a few readers are using it…

Cindy sent me an email saying, “I purchased a large wall calendar and started building the chains. This really works for me. I like to build that chain. There are 6 months of red X’s on my calendar. I am healthier, have lost 30 pounds, feel stronger, exercise more, garden, read more, work on my small business, and practice my French.”

The easiest way to start tracking your habits is to use the templates provided in the Habit Journal. It will make the whole process a breeze.

My favorite approach is to pick a very tiny version of your habit and track that. For example, I have been tracking the habit of “reading 1 page” for the last month. One reader named Günter did something similar. “I’ve done a simple workout every day for over half a year now. I managed to stick to it by changing the scope: when I don’t have time for a full set or don’t feel like it, instead of skipping altogether, I do an abbreviated session. I also mark it in my calendar.”

Hopefully, these short stories give you some ideas on how to build better habits in your own life. If you’d like to learn more about the strategies discussed above, check out Atomic Habits. And if you’re interested in a notebook that makes it easier to build better habits, try the Habit Journal.

But no matter what, keep taking action in small ways each day. It is so gratifying for me to see people making real changes in their life because of these ideas. As always, thanks for reading.

Why you can trust SafeWise

For over 13 years, SafeWise experts have conducted independent research and testing to write unbiased, human reviews (not robots).

We think that home security cameras are the perfect way to dip your toes into home security. They provide a window into what happens around the house without committing to pricier home security monitoring. We created this beginner’s guide to help you learn about specs and features common in all of the best home security cameras.

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Security camera basics

• How wireless security cameras work
• Types of security cameras
• Why video matters in home security
• Important security camera features
• Security camera installation

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How wireless security cameras work

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Types of security cameras

Security cameras are a diverse lot, and while you can use most types interchangeably—outdoor cameras work just as well indoors—it helps to know the main purpose and various names of each type. We also included links to our various camera reviews as examples of what to expect with each type.

Wireless camera (IP camera)

Wireless camera

Arlo Pro 4

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Wireless cameras refer to the Wi-Fi connection they use to communicate with a mobile app. You can buy a typical IP camera in wired and battery-powered configurations, though we suppose a true wireless security camera shuns cords altogether.

Outdoor camera

Outdoor camera

Ring Spotlight Cam

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Outdoor cameras come with weatherproofing that gives them better resistance against moisture and extreme temperatures, which break unprotected security cameras. Learn more about the differences between indoor and outdoor cameras.

Solar-powered camera

Solar-powered camera

Reolink Argus 3 Pro

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Solar-powered cameras are generally the same models as most wireless outdoor cameras but with an optional solar panel accessory for charging the battery.

PTZ camera (dome camera)

PTZ camera

Wyze Cam Pan v2

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Pan-tilt-zoom (PTZ) cameras (like the Wyze Cam Pan) have built-in motors so you can use an app to adjust the direction the camera points in. These indoor cameras are useful for rooms with subjects on opposite sides and for reducing the number of cameras you need.

Floodlight camera

Floodlight camera

Ring Floodlight Cam
Wired Pro

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Floodlight cameras (like the Ring Floodlight Cam) are like the motion sensor lights you see on many homes but with a built-in surveillance camera to capture video footage. These cameras wire directly into an electrical junction box, making them more challenging to install than typical USB-powered units. If you’re comfortable with minor electrical work, you should be able to manage.

All-in-one camera

All-in-one camera

Abode Iota

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All-in-one cameras (like the Abode Iota) combine a security camera with other sensors to form a compact security system. Unlike typical home security cameras, most all-in-ones can link to external security sensors to expand detection beyond a single room.

Multi-camera surveillance system (CCTV system)

CCTV system

Lorex 4K Analog System

View on Lorex

Multi-camera surveillance systems connect several wired cameras to an NVR or DVR for easy video recording and management. Unless you spend extra on wire-free models, these cameras use video or Ethernet cables to connect to the DVR, which increases installation time and complexity. You may want to bring in the pros for this installation.

Video doorbell (doorbell camera)

Video doorbell

Ring Video Doorbell
(2nd Gen)

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Video doorbells replace your home’s doorbell with a wide-angle security camera that connects you to visitors through two-way audio. They also provide extra defense against intruders and porch pirates by watching over your front porch and yard.

Hidden camera

Hidden camera

DIVINEEAGLE

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Hidden cameras rely on small sizes and disguises to record covert video in places where a visible security camera is vulnerable to interference by a burglar. These inconspicuous indoor security cameras aren’t for spying on people, which is usually a violation of privacy and wiretapping laws.

Baby monitor

Baby monitor

Infant Optics DXR-8

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Baby monitors are mainly for caretakers watching over young children in different parts of the house through a dedicated video monitor. These cameras can work for home security, but it’s not usually the primary goal. We recommend a pan-tilt or indoor camera for folks who don’t want a dedicated baby monitor. See our nanny cams review for more info.

How much do security cameras cost?

You can expect to pay around $130 on average for most security cameras, or roughly $16–$300 per unit. Learn more about security camera cost and installation.

Why video matters in home security

Video falls under one of our most crucial Ds of home security: Document. This is tangible evidence of the goings-on at home, like a thief grabbing your Amazon package or an intruder trying to open a window. The quality and quantity of video play a role in how effective a security camera is.

Daytime video on the Reolink Argus 3 Pro
Image: John Carlsen, SafeWise

Video quality

Security cameras rely on HD video to provide enough detail to help you identify people on camera. A camera’s resolution, night vision, and field of view have the biggest influence on overall video quality.

Resolution

It’s standard practice for most security cameras to provide at least 1080p video, so you shouldn’t accept anything less. If you have the budget, you can upgrade to a 4K (2160p) camera, but this uses up storage and wireless bandwidth a lot faster. A happy medium is 2K (1440p) video, which adds more detail without tearing through video storage and bandwidth as quickly.

Learn more in our HD security cameras review.

Night vision

You’ll find infrared night vision on most home security cameras, but the quality often depends on the camera’s image sensor. Infrared nighttime video typically has less detail than daytime video, most notably the lack of color. It’s increasingly common to find cameras with color infrared video or a spotlight that allows for colorful videos.

Nighttime video on the Nest Cam IQ Outdoor
Image: Celeste Tholen, SafeWise

Field of view

Another major factor in video quality is the camera’s field of view—the amount of area it can see through its lens. A wide field of view between 130º and 180º works best for outdoor settings with no walls blocking your view. A narrow field of view, about 70º to 130º, is a good fit for rooms indoors.

This is an example of Arlo’s cloud storage.
Image: John Carlsen, SafeWise

Video quantity

You need storage for a security camera to help you monitor your home and capture video evidence effectively—it’s nothing more than a glorified webcam without storage.

Local storage

Gone are the days of security cameras storing security footage on VHS tapes. The humble microSD card calls the shots now. Buying a microSD card provides loads of video clips or continuous video recording for a bargain. Local storage can also save on internet bandwidth if you have a data cap.

The camera saves footage until the card fills up, and you can choose whether it deletes old videos or stops recording. You can also find local storage via a hard drive on a CCTV camera system DVR (or NVR) and a USB stick on a wireless camera using a base station (like Arlo Ultra 2).

Cloud storage

Not all camera brands support local storage (it’s more profitable to sell you a monthly subscription to keep your video online on a corporate server). But it’s not without perks. Cloud storage doesn’t disappear if someone runs off with your camera and often comes with advanced features like better notifications and emergency response services.

Most cloud storage costs less than a Netflix subscription, but you’ll find the best deals on plans that allow for unlimited cameras for $10 a month or less. Videos on a cloud server expire after a while, usually 14 to 60 days, so you need to download anything you want to save permanently.

Important security camera features

You’ll find a lot of valuable features in security cameras beyond video, though most of these serve to improve the overall video experience.

Mobile apps

Practically all modern home security cameras come with a free mobile app. You can use an app to set up the camera, watch live video footage, and speak with guests via two-way audio. Mobile apps are also your main method for connecting security cameras to other smart home devices.

Although apps are free to download, you may need a subscription to unlock features like cloud storage, enhanced notifications, and smart detection of people, animals, and vehicles.

Two-way audio

Adding a built-in speaker to a security camera turns it into an intercom that pairs with your mobile device. You can use it to speak with people on the other end and deter trespassers.

Most security cameras have two-way audio so you’re the one starting a conversation. Still, video doorbells flip the script by allowing visitors to catch your attention when they push a button. (You don’t find two-way audio in a typical security camera system using a DVR.)

Learn more in our guide to security camera audio.

Motion detection

Security footage takes up a lot of memory, so most wireless cameras opt for short video clips instead of continuous video recording. That way, it shows you the highlights of the camera’s day and saves you from manually sorting through long, empty videos.

You can adjust the motion detection sensitivity on most cameras to keep notifications from constantly interrupting you. But many cameras also use motion zones to limit where the camera looks for movement. It’s even common to have cameras alert you to specific events through person, animal, vehicle, sound, and package detection.

Learn more in our review of motion sensor security cameras.

Security camera installation

The type of home security camera influences where you can install it, so it’s good to think about potential installation spots before buying. While you can expect to DIY install most security cameras, professional installation is available for around $50–$100 per camera or as part of a professional security system installation.

Indoor placement

A typical indoor camera works well when resting above a power outlet on a wall or high shelf. If you care about power cables attracting curious fingers or messing with your decor, it’s easy to hide them behind tall furniture and wall hangings. Most power cables are white so they blend in with walls.

Placing fixed-view cameras in a corner or a room’s narrowest side maximizes the field of view as long as there aren’t other obstructions. PTZ cameras work best on a wall or ceiling in large rooms where there’s a clear line of sight to the subjects you want to monitor.

Battery-powered cameras

Battery-powered wireless cameras are easier to install since they don’t need a power cord. Try installing in a spot where you can easily take them down to recharge or replace batteries using a step stool. Placing them too low could affect the field of view and put them in reach of intruders looking to eliminate evidence.

Outdoor placement

With outdoor cameras, be mindful of the closest power outlet (indoors and out) if there’s a power cord. Cameras with a wide field of view work well on the front and back of your house, but try to minimize how much they can see on neighboring properties. (There’s usually more flexibility for recording public streets next to your home.)

Although outdoor cameras offer weather resistance, it’s a good idea to place them under an eave or overhang to help keep the lens clear of dirt and water droplets that rain and snow can leave behind. Outdoor cameras work best when there’s no direct sun, which can cause overheating or blinding glare during certain times of the day.

Flipping Houses vs. Rental Properties

The question of whether flipping or buying and holding real estate is the best strategy for investing in property doesn’t have one correct answer. Instead, choosing one method over the other should be part of a clear strategic plan that considers your overall goals.

You should also take into consideration the opportunities presented by the existing market. Here is a look at what is involved in pursuing each strategy and how to decide which one might be right for you.

Key Takeaways

• Flipping properties and buying and holding real estate represent two different investment strategies.
• Owning real estate offers investors the opportunity to accumulate wealth over time and avoid the stock market’s ups and downs.
• Flipping can provide a quick turnaround on your investment and avoids the ongoing hassles of finding tenants and maintaining a property, but costs and taxes can be high.
• Buy-and-hold properties provide passive monthly income and tax advantages, but not everyone is prepared for the management and legal responsibilities of being a landlord.

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Why Invest in Real Estate?

That’s a good question. Residential real estate ownership is gaining ever-increasing interest from retail investors for many of the following reasons:

• Real estate can provide more predictable returns than stocks and bonds.
• Real estate provides an inflation hedge because rental rates and investment cash flow usually rise by at least as much as the inflation rate.
• Real estate provides an excellent place for capital in times when you’re unsure of the prospects for stocks and bonds.
• The equity created in a real estate investment provides an excellent base for financing other investment opportunities. Instead of borrowing to get the capital to invest (i.e., buying stocks on margin), investors can borrow against their equity to finance other projects.
• The tax-deductibility of mortgage interest makes borrowing against a home attractive.
• In addition to providing cash flow for owners, residential real estate can also be used for a home or other purposes.

Passive vs. Active Income

One key distinction between buying and holding and flipping properties is that the former can provide you with passive income, while the latter offers active income.

Passive income is money that is earned on investments that continues to make money without any material participation on your part. It could be from stocks and bonds or from owning rental property and receiving rental income each month, provided you hire a management company to do all the required tasks, such as finding tenants, collecting rent, and taking care of maintenance.

Active income is money that you earn in exchange for the work that you perform. That includes your salary from work, as well as the profits you make flipping houses. Flipping is considered active income, regardless of whether you are doing the physical labor of stripping floors. It is still a business that you engage in—finding a property to flip, purchasing it, obtaining insurance, overseeing contractors, managing the project, and more.

In this sense, flipping isn’t just an investment strategy like buying and holding stocks or real estate. If you have a day job, keep in mind that your spare time will likely be taken up with all of the demands that flipping a property entails.

Two Ways to Flip Properties

Two major types of properties can be used in a buy/sell approach to real estate investing. The first is houses or apartments that can be purchased below current market value because they are in financial distress. The second is the fixer-upper, a property with structural, design, or condition issues that can be overcome to create value.

Investors who focus on distressed properties do so by identifying homeowners who can no longer manage or sustain their properties or by finding properties that are overleveraged and are at risk of going into default. On the other hand, those who prefer fixer-uppers will remodel or enhance a property so that it works better for homeowners or is more efficient for apartment tenants.

The buyer of a fixer-upper using this tactic relies on invested labor to increase values instead of just buying a property at a low cost to create high investment returns. Of course, it is possible to combine these two strategies when flipping properties, and many people do just that.

However, consistently finding these opportunities can be challenging in the long run. For most people, flipping properties should be considered more of a tactical strategy than a long-term investment plan.

The Pros and Cons of Flipping

Pros

• Faster return on your money
• Potentially safer investment

Cons

• Costs
• Taxes

Pro: A Faster Return on Your Money

One big advantage of flipping properties is realizing gains quickly, which releases capital for other purposes. The average time to flip a house is about six months, though first-timers should expect the process to take longer.

Pro: A Potentially Safer Investment

Unlike the stock market, which can turn in the middle of a day, real estate markets are often more predictable. In a sense, flipping properties could be considered a safer investment strategy because it is intended to keep capital at risk for a minimal amount of time. It also lacks the management and leasing risks inherent in holding real estate—not to mention the hassles of finding tenants, collecting rents, and maintaining a property.

Con: Costs

Flipping houses can create cost issues that you don’t face with long-term investments. The expenses involved in flipping can demand a lot of money, leading to cash flow problems. Because transaction costs are very high on both the buy and sell sides, they can significantly affect profits. If you are giving up your day job and relying on flipping for your income, you’re also giving up a consistent paycheck.

Con: Taxes

The quick turnaround in properties (and speed is everything in successful flipping deals) can create swings in income that can boost your tax bill. That is especially true if things move too fast to take advantage of long-term capital gains tax rules.¹ In those cases, you’ll have to pay a higher capital gains tax rate based on your earned income if you own a property for less than a year.

The Pros and Cons of Buy-and-Hold

Pros

• Ongoing income
• Increase in property values
• Taxes

Cons

• Vacancy costs
• Management and legal issues

Pro: Ongoing Income

Owning rental property provides you with regular income, no matter where you are or what you are doing. What’s more, buying and holding real estate is a known recipe for amassing great wealth. A lot of “old money” in the U.S. and abroad was accumulated through land ownership. Despite periods of decreasing prices, land values have almost always rebounded in the long run because there is a limited supply of land.

Pro: Increase in Property Values

The longer you hold your investment property, the more likely you are to benefit from inflation. That will boost the property’s value while the amount you borrowed for the mortgage goes down as you pay it off. Suppose you were able to purchase during a buyer’s market and sell during a seller’s market. Then, there’s also real potential for a significant return on your investment.

Pro: Taxes

Owning a rental property has tax advantages not available to flippers. Rental property is taxed as investment income, with lower tax rates. You can also write off expenses, including repairs, maintenance or upkeep, paying a property manager, and driving to or from your property.

Furthermore, you’ll pay taxes at the long-term capital gains rate should you decide to sell after owning the property for more than a year.

Con: Vacancy Costs

Being unable to find tenants is one of the risks of owning rental property. That is true whether you do it yourself or hire a management company to do it for you. If your property sits empty for months or years, you are responsible for covering the mortgage during that period. Before investing in a buy-and-hold property, you’ll want to make sure your budget will cover one to three months of vacancy per year.

Con: Management and Legal Issues

Long-term real estate ownership is a management-intensive endeavor that is outside the skill set of many investors. Some investors, especially first-time rental property owners, are ill-prepared or ill-equipped to deal with the responsibilities and legal issues that come with being a landlord. The process of finding quality tenants and meeting their needs can be a stressful and time-intensive undertaking. However, successful property management is necessary to ensure ongoing cash flows from one’s investment.

Choosing a Strategy

You need to answer a few critical questions to decide whether flipping properties or holding them long-term is the best strategy. You must decide whether your capital allocation to real estate is a permanent investment or just a way to profit from an expected rise in home prices.

It would also help if you determined what risk and return ratio is appropriate for this portion of your investment portfolio. Finally, you must have the risk tolerance and skills to take on the management responsibilities that go along with either type of investment.

Suppose the capital is not available to purchase a diversified portfolio. In that case, a prospective investor must be prepared to take on unsystematic risk. That includes individual property risks and potential lack of demand for the property, whether by homeowners or renters.

If you’re considering a buy-and-sell strategy, you must also determine whether you have the skill to uncover distressed sale properties or fixer-uppers. In this transactional strategy, it’s essential to figure out whether capital can be turned enough times within a given investment period to overcome the transaction costs. They include brokerage, financing, and closing fees.

Important

You can enjoy both strategies’ benefits by developing a business flipping houses and using your profits to invest in long-term rental income properties.

The Bottom Line

The choice between the two strategies in question depends on your particular financial situation and goals. Nonetheless, the long-term holding strategy is generally more appropriate for those who use real estate as a core portion of their overall investment portfolios.

On the other hand, flipping properties is usually better when real estate is used as an adjunct or a return-enhancement tactic.

Investors wishing to amass wealth and derive income from their real estate investments should consider holding real estate for the long term. They can use the equity built into the portfolio to finance other investment opportunities, with the potential of eventually selling the properties in an up-market.

Flipping properties is a tactic that is best suited for periods when prospects in the stock and bond markets are low. It can also work for people trying to realize short-term capital gains for as long as the housing market allows.

In this article

• What Happens to Your Insurance Rates After an Accident?
• What Else Affects Your Auto Insurance Rates?
• How to Lower Your Car Insurance Rates After an Accident

Quick Answer

Although your complete driving history holds a lot of weight, insurance carriers will look at the last three to five years of your driving record when calculating your rates. The exact length of time can vary by state and insurance company.

Car insurance companies consider multiple factors when determining your rates, including your driving record. Your history as a driver holds a lot of weight, as it helps insurers assess risk and better understand how likely you are to file a future claim. If you have a recent auto accident on your driving record, it’s something that could translate to higher rates—especially if it’s accompanied by moving violations, such as speeding tickets.

The silver lining is that an accident’s impact on your premiums isn’t permanent. Many insurance companies only consider the last three to five years of your driving record when calculating your rates, although the exact length of time can vary by state and insurance company.

To be clear, that doesn’t necessarily mean that a previous accident will be removed from your driving record after a period of time—it’s just to say that insurers typically won’t factor it into your rates. In other words, an accident from six years ago might still be on your driving record, but it might not have a huge impact on your car insurance rates—assuming you’ve continued to demonstrate responsible driving since then. It is best to compare auto insurance rates from different companies when you’re ready to switch car insurance carriers.

Wondering how long an accident will stay on your insurance? Let’s first unpack how it affects your car insurance rates in the short term.

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What Happens to Your Insurance Rates After an Accident?

Since your driving record influences your car insurance premiums, an accident could bump up your insurance costs. However, it doesn’t mean that your rates will definitely skyrocket if you’re involved in an accident. In some cases, they may not change at all if you weren’t at fault or if it’s your first accident. You’re likely to see a rate hike if you’ve been involved in other accidents over the past few years. And, again, the same goes for moving violations.

Insurers look at the big picture when determining your risk profile and, in turn, your rates. In this way, accidents and citations can stack on top of each other to increase your premium. Your rates could also go up after an accident if the other driver doesn’t have enough insurance to cover the damage. In this situation, you might have to utilize your own uninsured/underinsured motorist coverage, which could trigger a rate increase.

It’s also helpful to think in terms of individual claims. A minor fender bender will likely result in a smaller claim when compared to a collision that causes serious damage or injuries. Let’s say you get into an accident that’s primarily your fault. If you file a claim with your insurance company that exceeds a specific amount, your premium will spike by a correlating percentage, according to the Insurance Information Institute. The correlation varies from insurer to insurer, and you can expect that rate hike to be there as long as your insurer considers the accident as a factor in your rate.

Learn more:Why Did My Car Insurance Go up Without an Accident?

In some cases, an accident could result in your car being totaled, which is when the overall cost of repairs outweighs the value of the car. At that point, your insurer may provide a payout equivalent to your car’s actual cash value. The value of a vehicle is typically determined by the vehicle’s make and model, age, mileage and condition, among other factors, at the time of the accident. It’s essentially a rough estimate of how much the car could have reasonably sold for had it not been totaled.

What Else Affects Your Auto Insurance Rates?

Your driving record isn’t the only factor that affects your auto insurance rates. Every state has its own minimum coverage requirements, and rates tend to vary from state to state. You should find out the types of car insurance coverage your state requires, and which ones are optional to get the best car insurance rates. Things like your gender, age and marital status and how much you drive can all come into play as well. And if you opt for a pricier car that’s more expensive to repair or more likely to be stolen, you could end up paying a higher premium. Moreover, insuring a car that’s leased or financed tends to be more expensive as your lessor or lender will likely require you to purchase additional coverage.

A policy that has a higher deductible, which is the amount you’ll pay in out-of-pocket costs before your policy coverage kicks in, generally comes with lower premiums, and vice versa. Just bear in mind that a high deductible could be costly in the event that you have to file a claim.

In most states, car insurance companies can also consider your credit when determining your rates by using a credit-based insurance score. Like your consumer credit scores, credit-based insurance scores are based on things like your debt payment history and account balances. If you have a high credit score, it’s likely you also have a high credit-based insurance score. Having a strong score can unlock lower rates because it suggests that you may be less likely to file a claim in the future.

Stop overpaying for insurance

How to Lower Your Car Insurance Rates After an Accident

Besides being patient and waiting for the accident to no longer be considered, there are ways you may be able to offset an increase in your car insurance rates following an accident. Improving your credit is a great place to start: Even simple moves, like making timely debt payments and reducing your outstanding credit card balances, could have a big impact if your state allows the use of credit scores in insurance pricing. Review your credit by checking your free credit report and scores from Experian.

Another way to lower high premiums for car insurance costs is to explore discounts. Your insurer may offer discounts for students, military service members and seniors. You may also be able to shave your costs by bundling your auto coverage with your renters or homeowners insurance policies. Some insurers offer discounts to policyholders who take a defensive driving course or demonstrate safe driving for a certain period of time. No matter what discounts your current auto insurer may offer, be sure to shop around and compare quotes with other carriers to find the best rate.

If possible, it could help to reduce the number of miles you drive annually. Your average mileage plays a significant role in determining your risk and, by extension, your insurance rates. If you’ve started working from home or got a new job with a shorter commute, be sure to alert your insurance company so your premium can take your new driving habits into account.

The Bottom Line

Whether it’s an accident, a moving violation or a traffic citation, a blemish on your driving record can spark an increase in your car insurance premiums. These types of rate increases typically last anywhere from three to five years, assuming you don’t incur any new infractions. Improving your credit in the meantime could help reduce your premiums—and strengthen your overall financial health in the process.

In this article

• 1. Waiting Until There’s an Issue
• 2. Not Choosing the Right Type of Coverage
• 3. Not Understanding Your Financial Responsibility
• 4. Not Reading the Fine Print
• 5. Not Shopping Around

• 6. Not Looking for Discounts
• 7. Canceling Your Policy Without Good Reason
• Is Pet Insurance Worth It?

Quick Answer

To avoid the most common pet insurance mistakes, be sure to choose your policy wisely, clarify what’s covered and what isn’t, look for discounts and buy insurance before your pet is ill or injured.

Pets bring joy and companionship into our lives. However, they can also bring unexpected expenses when illness or injury strikes. Pet insurance can help offset a costly vet bill, but to get the most value from your policy, it’s important to avoid these seven common mistakes.

1. Waiting Until There’s an Issue

Your dog starts limping on Wednesday, so you buy pet insurance on Thursday and make a vet appointment for Friday, expecting insurance to cover it. Not so fast: Most pet insurance policies have waiting periods before coverage kicks in. Typically, you can expect waiting periods of a few days for accident coverage, a few weeks for illness coverage and several months for orthopedic issues.

What’s more, pet insurance generally won’t cover preexisting conditions—that is, any health problem your pet had before you bought insurance. The longer you wait to purchase pet insurance, the greater the chances your pet will develop health issues that will be excluded from coverage.

Tip: You’ll generally pay less and get more comprehensive coverage if you buy pet insurance while your pet is young and healthy.

Compare pet insurance

Explore affordable and comprehensive pet insurance plans. Find budget-friendly options with broad coverage for accidents, illnesses, and more.

2. Not Choosing the Right Type of Coverage

Most pet insurance providers offer three kinds of coverage:

• Accident and illness insurance covers injuries due to accidents, such as getting hit by a car or bitten by a dog, and illnesses, such as cancer or ear infections.
• Accident-only insurance covers injuries due to accidents, but doesn’t cover treatment for illness.
• Wellness coverage pays for preventive care, such as vaccinations, flea and tick medication and routine vet exams. It’s generally offered as an add-on to the other types of coverage.

Depending on your insurance provider, coverage for specific treatments (such as behavioral issues or dental care) may be standard or may require purchasing add-on coverage. Understanding what each insurer’s offerings cover (and don’t cover) can help you choose the right policy for both your pet and your budget.

3. Not Understanding Your Financial Responsibility

Premiums aren’t your only cost concern when purchasing pet insurance. Insurance policies don’t cover the full cost of veterinary care. You’ll generally have to pay a deductible, which may be annual or per-claim and typically ranges from $0 to $1,000.

You’ll also select how much the plan reimburses you. Generally, you can choose reimbursement rates between 60% and 90%. If your plan has an 80% reimbursement rate, for instance, insurance pays 80% of the vet bill and you pay 20%. Wellness insurance typically covers a set amount for each claim, such as $75 annually for vaccinations or $50 annually for a routine vet visit. Researching average prices for local veterinary services can help you estimate how much various plans might save you.

Learn more:What Is a Deductible?

4. Not Reading the Fine Print

Don’t make your decision based solely on an insurance provider’s ads or what’s touted on their website homepage. Dig into the details by reviewing a sample insurance policy (you can usually find one on the insurer’s website). Carefully review:

• What is covered and excluded: There may be a fine line between the two. For example, a policy might cover prescribed supplements and vitamins, but only during treatment for an illness.
• Coverage limits or caps: In addition to annual or lifetime maximum payouts, there may be caps for specific treatments. A policy with a $10,000 annual maximum payout may cap behavioral health coverage at $1,000, for instance.
• General terms and conditions: Getting coverage may require providing your pet’s medical records, taking your pet for annual physical and dental exams, or visiting the vet within 48 hours of noticing a potential health problem. Make sure you can meet the required conditions.

If you’re not sure what something means, contact the insurance company and ask.

5. Not Shopping Around

Comparing pet insurance policies before you buy could save you hundreds of dollars per year. Gather quotes from several insurance carriers, being sure to compare the same type and amount of coverage.

Start your search by asking your vet or checking the North American Pet Health Insurance Association (NAPHIA)’s list of member companies. Your current home insurance or auto insurance company may sell pet insurance too.

To save time, you could visit an online pet insurance marketplace. Provide some basic information about your pet and get quotes from dozens of insurance providers in minutes. You can typically adjust reimbursement rates, coverage and deductibles on each provider’s website to see how various changes will affect your premiums.

6. Not Looking for Discounts

Increasing your deductible or lowering your reimbursement rate can help you save money on pet insurance, but you can also find deals without cutting coverage. Your insurance company might give you a discount if you bundle pet insurance with home or auto insurance. Your job or organizations you belong to may offer deals. You might also qualify for discounts if you insure multiple pets; adopt a shelter animal; or spay, neuter or microchip your pet. Some insurers offer discounts if you pay your annual premium upfront or pay online.

7. Canceling Your Policy Without Good Reason

If you’re currently paying for pet insurance and the cost isn’t that high, think twice before canceling your policy. Once you cancel, you’ll no longer have the safety net pet insurance affords you, leaving you responsible for any costly vet bills that pop up.

“Learn from my mistake: I canceled my young dog’s policy since I was paying more money for the policy than I was getting reimbursed (though the cost was only around $50 a month). But shortly after canceling my policy, my dog got a rare side effect of a prescription and I incurred a nearly $20,000 emergency vet bill that I had to pay out of pocket. If I had kept my insurance policy, I would’ve paid less than $1,000.”

If you later decide to reenroll after a gap in coverage, it will likely cost more as your pet is older, and any preexisting conditions will be excluded from coverage. That said, if your policy is expensive and you can’t afford the cost, it can make sense to cancel it and set aside some emergency savings for pet bills.

Is Pet Insurance Worth It?

Pet insurance can be worth the cost if you would struggle to pay a big vet bill on your own. Without insurance, you might have to deny your pet critical veterinary care. Pet insurance can also be a good idea if your pet is older or prone to breed-specific health issues and you can find coverage for these conditions.

However, you might not need pet insurance if you have a big emergency fund or other resources to cover a major expense. You might also want to skip pet insurance if the premiums are so high that the benefits barely outweigh the cost. For example, a wellness plan that costs $225 a year but caps annual payouts at $250 only nets you $25 in benefits. Instead, consider putting that money into a sinking fund for veterinary care.

The Bottom Line

Purchasing pet insurance can help offset the cost of veterinary treatment, but it doesn’t cover every medical expense your pet may have. Adjust your budget to cover everyday pet care expenses and build up an emergency fund to handle unexpected vet bills. Opting for a high-yield savings account could help your savings grow faster so you’re better prepared to care for your furry friend, no matter what the future brings.

Hitting the road is a great way to leave your troubles behind, but make sure you have the right car insurance for a road trip in case you get into an accident.

Does Car Insurance Cover Road Trips?

A good car insurance policy covers common road trip problems like car accidents and severe weather damage. Let’s take a look at some questions that you may want to know about before hitting the road.

What if I’m Driving my Own Car?

If you are driving your own car, your car insurance policy will cover certain types of problems, depending on what coverage types you purchased.

Here are some of the main types of car insurance and the problems they cover:

• Liability car insurance. If you cause a car crash on your road trip, liability car insurance covers accidental property damage and injuries to others. It also pays for a legal defense, judgment and settlement if you are sued because of an accident. Liability car insurance is required in most states.
• Uninsured motorist insurance (UM). Uninsured motorist coverage and underinsured motorist coverage pay for medical expenses and other costs for you and your passengers if a driver without liability car insurance or insufficient liability car insurance crashes into you. UM is required in some states and optional in others (you can reject the coverage in writing).
• Collision and comprehensive insurance. These are optional coverage types that are often sold together and cover a wide host of road trip problems. Collision and comprehensive insurance covers problems like car accidents, car theft, hail, fire, vandalism, floods, falling objects and collisions with animals (like deer).
• Personal injury protection (PIP). Personal injury protection pays for you and your passengers’ medical expenses no matter who is at fault for the accident. Many states require PIP. It is optional in some states and unavailable in others.
• Medical payments. Sometimes called MedPay coverage, this covers you and your passengers’ medical bills no matter who caused the car accident. This coverage (where available) is usually sold in small amounts, often between $1,000 to $5,000. MedPay is not available in every state.
• Roadside assistance insurance. If you have a problem like a flat tire, dead battery, empty gas tank or lock yourself out of your car, roadside assistance insurance can help get you back on your way. This coverage may be available depending on your car insurance company. You can also get roadside assistance through other sources, such as your credit card or an auto club.

What if I Own a Car but I’m Driving a Rental Car?

Generally, your personal car insurance covers rental cars within the U.S. For example, your liability insurance, collision insurance and comprehensive insurance will extend to cover a rental.

But you might have some gaps in coverage. For instance, personal car insurance usually won’t cover “loss of use” charges. If you get into a car accident, your car rental company could charge you a daily fee to cover the lost income while the rental car is in the repair shop. This could add up to thousands of dollars.

When you rent a car, you’ll typically have the option to buy a collision damage waiver (CDW), which reduces your financial responsibility if something happens to the rental car. If you get into an accident or the rental car gets stolen, the CDW lowers the amount you have to pay to repair or replace the rental car. It also covers other expenses like loss of use, towing, administrative fees and diminished value of the rental car.

But before you buy the CDW, check to see how much coverage you have through your own car insurance or credit card.

What if I Don’t Own a Car and I’m Driving a Rental Car?

If you don’t own a car and do not have your own car insurance policy, you will need to purchase rental car insurance.

You can typically get rental car insurance from your rental car company, such as Avis, Enterprise or Hertz. You’ll have the option to buy coverage types such as liability insurance, personal accident insurance (PAI), CDW, roadside assistance and personal effects coverage, which covers your personal belongings if they are damaged or stolen.

But buying rental car insurance from the rental car company can be expensive, and you might already have some coverage in your existing insurance policies. It’s a good idea to look at what your policies cover and only buy what’s necessary from the rental car company.

Here are some policies to consider:

• Credit cards. Some credit cards cover car rental insurance if you use your card to pay for the rental car, but it might be limited to certain coverage types, such as collision insurance. Credit cards often exclude other types of coverage, such as liability insurance and coverage for your own medical expenses.
• Health insurance. If you get hurt in a car accident within the U.S., your medical expenses are covered by your health insurance plan (your deductible and copays will apply). Personal accident insurance from the rental car company can be low. For example, Hertz PAI only pays up to $2,500 for accidental medical expenses per person.
• Homeowners or renters insurance. If you already have homeowners insurance, condo insurance or renters insurance, you may not need to buy personal effects coverage from the rental car company. That’s because these insurance types cover damage and theft of personal items outside of your home. For example, if your laptop is stolen from your rental car, you can file a claim under your home insurance.
• Non-owner car insurance. If you rent cars often, a non-owners car insurance policy is a good way to get liability coverage. But non-owner car insurance won’t cover damage to the rental car or your own medical expenses.
• Travel insurance. Your travel insurance plan might include some coverage for rental cars. For example, some AIG Travel Guard Insurance plans provide up to $50,000 for rental car damage and $50 for roadside assistance. But they don’t include liability insurance.
• Umbrella insurance. If you cause a car crash that exceeds your liability limits on another policy (such as home insurance), umbrella insurance kicks in to cover the excess amount, up to your policy limits.

Does Car Insurance Cover Out-of-State Trips?

Generally, if you are driving your own car, your car insurance policy covers you in all 50 states and Canada. You do not need to buy another policy or more insurance if you travel to another state.

For example, if you take your car on a road trip from New York City to Seattle, your car insurance policy will cover you from the start of your trip to the end of your trip and all points in between (provided you stay within the U.S. and Canada).

If you are driving a rental car, your car insurance will extend to out-of-state trips. Some insurers will extend coverage if you drive into Canada. For example, both Farmers and Progressive say your coverage usually extends if you drive into Canada. But it’s a good idea to check with your insurance company before you cross into Canada to ensure you have coverage.

Does Car Insurance Cover Trips to Mexico?

Your car insurance has limited or no coverage in Mexico. If you’re planning on going south of the border for your road trip, you’ll need to buy Mexican car insurance.

And if you plan to rent a car in the U.S. and drive to Mexico, make sure you check with your rental car company first. Some rental car companies prohibit driving into Mexico or may restrict travel to certain areas.

How To Prepare Your Car for a Road Trip

Before you embark on your journey, make sure you have everything in order.

• Get your car checked. It’s a good idea to make sure your car is inspected and roadworthy before you take off on your journey. Make sure your tires are properly inflated and in good condition, fluids are topped-off or changed, the belts and hoses are in good shape and the radiator and cooling system operate properly.
• Assemble an emergency kit. This could include jumper cables, a tire jack, a first aid kit, emergency flares, motor oil, blankets, flashlights, nonperishable food and drinking water.
• Get roadside assistance. Flat tires and dead batteries are going to set you back. If you don’t already have roadside assistance insurance through a credit card, auto club (such as AAA), or vehicle manufacturer, you may be able to add it to your car insurance policy.
• Plan your route in advance. Have printed maps and directions in case you lose service and your GPS is unavailable. It’s also a good idea to know where you’re stopping ahead of time to avoid drowsy driving.
• Have your car insurance ready. If you get into an accident, you’ll likely need to show proof of insurance. You can typically download this ahead of time on your car insurance company’s mobile app.
• Have your wallet ready. Check the cost of lodging ahead of time, make sure your credit cards aren’t expired, notify your credit card company that you are traveling and have some cash on hand.

You’re buying homeowners insurance so you’re protected for every problem, right? Not exactly. 

Homeowners insurance is a vital way to protect your home, but these policies don’t compensate you for every type of damage that may happen. Plus, if you don’t have enough home insurance, you may wind up still needing to shell out money to bridge coverage gaps. Let’s take a look at what homeowners insurance covers and, equally important, what it doesn’t cover.

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What Does Homeowners Insurance Cover?

The most common homeowners insurance policy, called the HO-3, covers your house (dwelling structure) for any problem except those listed as exclusions in the policy.

Personal property is covered if the damage is from specific “perils,” which is insurance-speak for “problems.” An HO-3 policy covers personal property for these perils:

• Accidental discharge or overflow of water or steam
• Aircraft, including self-propelled missiles and spacecraft
• Explosion
• Falling objects
• Fire or lightning
• Freezing
• Riot or civil commotion
• Smoke
• Sudden and accidental damage from artificially generated electrical current
• Sudden and accidental tearing apart, cracking, burning or bulging
• Theft
• Vandalism or malicious mischief
• Vehicles
• Weight of ice, snow or sleet
• Windstorm or hail
• Volcanic eruption

If you want better coverage for your possessions, ask your insurance agent about an HO-5 or similar types of home insurance policies. (Not all insurers use these standard policy types.) An HO-5 policy covers your house and personal property for all problems except those expressly excluded.

The most common type of home insurance claim is for wind and hail damage. Nearly 43% of homeowners insurance claims were related to wind and hail damage, but the costliest average property damage claim is for fire and lightning damage, according to Triple-I (Insurance Information Institute). Here’s a look at the three most common property damage claims and the average claim costs for each.

Type	Percentage of claims	Average claim amount
Wind and hail	43%	$14,747
Water damage and freezing	23%	$15,400
Fire and lightning	22%	$88,170

Source: Triple-I

The Best Home Insurance Companies

Company	Forbes Advisor rating	Price competitiveness	Level of complaints	Learn More
Nationwide	5Rating	Very good	High	Get QuotesVia Forbes Advisor’s Partner
USAA	5Rating	Very good	Very low	Get QuotesVia Forbes Advisor’s Partner
Westfield	4.9Rating	Very good	Low	Get QuotesVia Forbes Advisor’s Partner
American Family	4.3Rating	Average	Low	Get QuotesVia Forbes Advisor’s Partner
Country Financial	4.1Rating	Fair	Very low	Get QuotesVia Forbes Advisor’s Partner
State Farm	4.1Rating	Very good	High	Get QuotesVia Forbes Advisor’s Partner
Chubb	4Rating	Fair	Very low	Get QuotesVia Forbes Advisor’s Partner

Common Home Insurance Coverage Add-Ons

Beyond standard home insurance, you can also usually add more coverage to your policy. Common home insurance endorsements include:

• Earthquake insurance. Not usually covered by a standard home policy, insurers may allow you to add earthquake insurance coverage as an endorsement. 
• Equipment breakdown coverage. Covers mechanical and electrical breakdowns on appliances like boilers, computers, furnaces, heating, refrigerators and washers. 
• Extended or guaranteed replacement coverage. These policy add-ons allow you to exceed your dwelling coverage if you need to rebuild your home but building costs go over your limit. Extended replacement coverage is a percentage that you’re allowed to exceed the limit (such as 20%), while guaranteed coverage will pay any amount to return your home to its former glory. 
• Flood insurance. You typically need to buy a separate flood insurance policy to get flood coverage, but some insurers allow you to add it as a policy endorsement. 
• Identity theft coverage. Helps pay the costs of recovering your identity after a theft, including fraud services and fees. 
• Inflation guard coverage. Home policies may allow you to add an inflation guard, which increases your dwelling coverage automatically based on inflation. 
• Personal property replacement value. Home insurance typically comes with actual cash value coverage for personal property, which means it pays the depreciated value for personal property. Choosing replacement value requires the insurer to reimburse you for the items as if they were new. 
• Scheduled personal property. Allows you to expand personal property coverage for specific high-priced items, such as electronics, jewelry and silverware. 
• Service line coverage. Covers damaged lines on your property like cable lines, internet lines, power lines, sewer pipes and water pipes. 
• Sinkhole coverage. Standard home insurance doesn’t typically cover this type of damage, but you may buy an endorsement. 
• Water backup coverage. Home insurance doesn’t typically cover sewer or sump pump backups, but you can add an endorsement to provide that coverage. 
• Windstorm coverage. Insurers may exclude wind and hail coverage in certain high-risk areas, such as coastal regions. In that case, you can add windstorm coverage to your policy as an endorsement. 

How Does Homeowners Insurance Work?

Home insurance is a contract between you and the insurance company. You pay a premium to have home insurance, which can be paid monthly or annually. 

The home insurance company, in turn, covers you for types of damage to your home and belongings. Homeowners insurance also provides personal liability coverage, which helps pay if you or a family member is legally responsible for bodily injury or property damage to someone else or their property. 

You file a claim if, for instance, your home is damaged in a fire. The insurer reviews the claim, often sends an insurance adjuster to check the damage and decides on a settlement amount. You then get reimbursed for that amount, minus your policy deductible. 

The insurance company may also increase your home insurance premium after you file a claim. You’ll want to decide whether it’s worth filing the claim or not. For instance, if you have a $1,000 deductible and your home suffered a similar amount in damage, you’ll probably want to pay for the repairs yourself since you’ll get so little from the insurance company and the company may charge higher rates because of the claim.

What Coverage Types Are Included in a Homeowners Insurance Policy?

Type of coverage	What it does	Typical amount covered
Dwelling coverage	Pays to rebuild or repair the physical structure of your house if it’s damaged by a problem covered by the policy, like a fire or damage from a fallen tree.	Enough to rebuild your home if it’s damaged or destroyed
Other structures coverage	Covers detached structures such as a garage, shed or fence.	10% of dwelling coverage
Personal property coverage	Pays to replace or repair belongings after a covered problem. Certain items, like jewelry, have a limit, but you can “schedule” certain expensive items.	50% to 70% of dwelling coverage, but you can buy additional coverage
Personal liability coverage	Pays for accidental injuries and property damage to others for which you or your household members are responsible. Also pays your legal defense if you’re sued because of an injury or damage that’s covered.	$100,000 to $500,000, but you can buy additional coverage through an umbrella insurance policy
Medical payments coverage	Pays for minor injuries if a guest is hurt on your property, regardless of fault. It also pays if you or a family member unintentionally injures someone away from your property, and if a pet injures someone away from your home.	$1,000 to $5,000
Additional living expenses coverage	Reimburses you for extra expenses like hotel bills and meals if you can’t live in your house because of a covered problem like a fire. Also called loss of use coverage.	20% of dwelling coverage

Replacement Cost vs. Actual Cash Value

You’ll often have a choice between replacement cost or actual cash value coverage for your belongings when buying a home policy. Replacement cost coverage is more expensive because it reimburses you for brand-new, similar versions of the items that were destroyed. Actual cash value coverage takes depreciation into account (meaning the value of the item at the time of the loss).

For example, if your TV is damaged by a problem covered by the policy (such as a fire), replacement cost coverage will pay for a new TV of a comparable model. Actual cash value coverage will only pay what the TV was worth at the time of the problem, and you will need to make up the difference if you buy a new TV.

What Is Not Covered by Homeowners Insurance?

Common exclusions in a standard homeowners insurance policy include:

• Earth movement, including earthquakes, mudslides, mudflow, sinkholes, shockwaves or tremors due to a volcanic eruption, and any other earth movement such as sinking, rising or shifting.
• Governmental action, such as the destruction, confiscation or seizure of your property.
• Intentional damage that you or your household members cause. (Vandalism by someone else is covered.)
• Neglect, such as failing to take proper care of your property. This may include roof leaks, termite damage, plumbing damage and foundation damage caused by wear and tear. 
• Nuclear hazard, including damage from nuclear explosion or reaction, radiation or radioactive contamination. 
• Ordinance or law, meaning situations where the government requires you to demolish, rebuild, renovate or repair your home to meet local ordinances.
• Power failure if it happens off the property. If the power failure is caused by something on the property, home insurance typically covers the damage. 
• War, such as damage from military forces during a war.
• Water damage, including floods, water that backs up through sewers or drains (unless you have added special coverage for this), and leaks from swimming pools or other structures.

Common Situations Where Coverage May Vary

There are some situations where home insurance won’t cover you, and there are times when it depends on the situation.

Type of damage	Causes likely covered	When it won’t
Foundation	AccidentalFiresLightning strikesSmoke damageTree falls into houseVandalismVehicle crashes into houseWindstorm	Wear and tearPreventable
Mold	Sudden and accidental	Long-term water leak causes mold
Plumbing	Sudden and accidental	Wear and tearPreventable
Roof leak	Sudden issue like wind and rain	Not maintained properly
Roof replacement	Falling objectsFireLightningSmokeVandalismSnow and iceWind and hail	AnimalsEarthquakesMoldNeglectRotWear and tear
Termites	Termites chew through writes and cause fireSudden burst pipe leads to attracting termites	Lack of maintenance to repair damage before it becomes a problem
Water	Accidental leaksBurst pipesIce damsFireStorm	FloodsFoundation seepageNeglectSewer or drain backupSwimming pool lakesSump pump failure

Homeowners Insurance Deductibles

A home insurance deductible is the amount deducted from an approved claim. For instance, if you have a $1,000 homeowners insurance deductible and the insurance company approves a $10,000 claim following a small fire in your kitchen, the insurer will provide you $9,000. 

The lower the deductible, the more you usually pay for coverage. If you’re looking to save on home insurance, a higher deductible might work, but realize that you’ll get reimbursed less if you need to file a claim later. 

Types of Deductibles

There are two types of home insurance deductibles: 

• Flat dollar. This type of deductible is a set amount, such as $1,000.
• Percentage. Often between 1% and 10%, this deductible is a percentage of your home’s dwelling coverage. For instance, a home insurance policy with a 2% percentage deductible for a home with $400,000 dwelling coverage would have an $8,000 policy deductible. A percentage deductible is generally for specific causes of damage, such as wind and hail or disasters like hurricanes and tornadoes.

What if you disagree with your home insurance claim’s outcome?

You have homeowners insurance to cover damage to your home and its contents. So, when an unforeseen event happens and you have to file an insurance claim, you expect everything to be covered—especially since filing a home insurance claim often involves multiple steps. 

Unfortunately, full payment from the insurance company doesn’t always come through; the insurer can deny your claim for many different reasons. Even if your claim is approved, the settlement amount may be less than you expected. Both of these situations can add to your stress and frustration levels. 

If you’re having trouble settling your claim, what can you do? Learn what steps you can take to dispute the decision and try for a different outcome. 

Review Your Home Insurance Policy

If your home insurance company denied your claim or approved it for an amount lower than you expected, review your policy carefully. During this review, verify that your existing policy covers your claim. If it does, note how much money you’re entitled to under your coverage limits. 

Note

Standard home insurance policies don’t cover everything. For example, damage due to floods and earthquakes is typically not covered. If you are at risk for these perils, talk to your insurance company about purchasing an additional policy to protect you.¹

If your claim was denied for reasons made clear in your policy, the cost for repairs or replacement is probably your responsibility. However, if your insurer made a mistake in either denying your claim or approving it for a lowball amount, you have a few different avenues for action.

Ask for Clarification

After you’ve reviewed your policy, ask your agent or insurance representative for clarification. It’s likely you’ll want to level up and speak to the claims manager directly. Why, specifically, was your claim denied, or how did the insurer arrive at the dollar amount it approved? 

If the agent or representative uses language that confuses you, ask for further clarification until you understand the reasoning behind the decision that was made. If you don’t, it may be time to take another approach. If your agent can’t address your concerns, ask if the insurance company can send out a different adjuster for a second opinion. 

Clear communication is essential during this stage. You want to have a complete understanding of the decision before accepting it or deciding to pursue your dispute further.

Appeal the Decision

If your insurer denies your claim, you can appeal that decision. The insurer may have a standard appeal form you can fill out, and you’ll usually need to submit it within a year or two of the date of loss. Check with your insurer about the appeal window if you’re unsure how long you have and ask about next steps.

Once you know how the process works, gather all the evidence and documentation you can to make your case. Some of the information you’ll want to gather includes: 

• The incident details (dates, damage, what you did beforehand to prevent the damage).
• Witness statements about the incident.
• Proof that you did what you could to prevent the incident from happening.

Submit your appeal form and the corresponding paperwork that supports your case. Your appeal should trigger a review of your denial.

Note

A well-organized appeal can increase the chances that the insurer will do more than just a basic review of your appeal. 

In the weeks and months that follow, check in with your insurer to see how your appeal is advancing through the process.

Contact Your State Department of Insurance

During the appeals process, or if you haven’t made any headway with your insurance company, reach out to your state’s department of insurance for advice, free resources, and next steps. Insurance departments typically have a number you can call for help and explanations about the basics of homeowners insurance in their state. Plus, some states might investigate your claim and/or offer free mediation services to assist you in settling without involving a lawyer. 

Your state’s insurance department is led by an insurance commissioner who is a public official. In addition to providing information about policies and insurers, the commissioner’s office can investigate problems and ensure that claim decisions follow the law.

Consult a Lawyer

To assist in negotiations, especially for high-value claims, consider consulting an attorney. If you go this route, make sure you select one who specializes in home insurance claims. This way, you have the best legal representation possible. Many firms offer free consultations to review your claim and decide if you have a case worth pursuing. 

Note

If you’re considering hiring an attorney, do so before you’ve reached any binding settlement offer, such as one made via the appraisal clause in your insurance policy.

Get an Independent Appraisal

If your claim wasn’t denied, but you and your insurer disagree on the amount of the damages or repair costs, you can get an independent appraisal from an appraiser or public insurance adjuster. 

Your insurance policy should clearly state the process for proceeding, under the “Appraisal” section in the policy. Often, you’ll need to submit a request in writing. Then, you and your insurance company each select a qualified appraiser. Depending on your policy, the appraisers may work to come to an accord on their own. If they can’t or if your policy specifies that they do so initially, they’ll select an impartial umpire, or mediator, who will help to determine your claim’s valuation. If at least two of the three parties agree, it sets the amount of your loss, which is binding.

You are responsible for the cost of this appraisal and split the cost of the umpire with the insurance company. It’s worth it to research the price before you begin, as public-adjuster service fees can cost as much as 20% of your settlement’s total value.

No matter which state you live in, include supporting documents to verify your complaint, so make sure you keep good records throughout the process.²³

File a Complaint

If you feel your insurance company has mishandled your claim, consider filing a complaint with your state insurance department. Since each state has its own process for filing a complaint, begin by researching your location’s requirements. 

Key Takeaways

When you’re disputing a home insurance claim denial or low settlement offer, it’s essential to understand the terms of your coverage and the reasons why the insurer denied your claim. If you believe the company should have approved it, you should utilize your state insurance commissioner’s free resources, and may want to work with a third-party appraiser, and/or a lawyer to reach a satisfactory agreement